Ingredient Description & Formulation Guide

Ingredient Description & Formulation Guide

Build Your Custom Formula

Please do your own research on ingredients, your skin type, and how to achieve your skincare goals. This is for experienced skincare users only.

Create your own custom facial oil or serum by selecting your preferred base oils, functional ingredients, and optional add-ons. Every choice changes the texture, absorption, and overall performance of your final product, so take your time and build something that feels right for your skin.

At Cosmocost, customization is meant to be real. You are not being pushed into a small group of pre-made products through a quiz. You are choosing the ingredients you want, the strengths you prefer, and building something that actually fits your skincare goals.

Formulation Guide

Step 1: Choose Your Base Oils

Your base oils create the foundation of your formula and have the biggest effect on how your serum feels on the skin.

Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides (CCT)
Very light, dry, and fast-absorbing.

Squalane
Lightweight, silky, and balanced.

Abyssinian Oil
Velvety, smooth, and slightly richer.

Argan Oil
Nourishing, silky, and more moisturizing.

You can use one base oil or blend multiple base oils to create your preferred balance of richness, absorption, and skin feel. 

Step 2: Choose Functional Ingredients

Next, add your actives based on your skincare goals. These are performance-driven ingredients such as vitamin C derivatives, peptides, antioxidants, retinoids, and botanical extracts.

Each ingredient adds its own benefits and can also change the feel of your final formula. Some ingredients are best for brightening, others for hydration, smoothing, antioxidant support, or improving the look of firmness and texture.

Helpful Tip

More actives usually create a thicker, richer formula.

Fewer actives usually create a lighter texture with faster absorption.

If you are just getting started, 1 to 3 actives is a great place to begin.

Smart Compatibility Logic

Our custom builder automatically prevents incompatible ingredients from being selected together. Certain ingredients can affect the stability or performance of others, especially when liposomes, peptides, or penetration-enhancing solvents are involved.

If an ingredient is not compatible with another one you have selected, it may be hidden automatically in the builder. This helps create formulas that are more stable, effective, and thoughtfully designed without requiring you to figure out complex formulation rules on your own.

Step 3: Customize Strengths

Some ingredients allow you to choose your preferred strength. This gives you more control over the performance and feel of your formula.

For example, you may begin with a lower percentage of THDA or retinol and gradually increase over time while keeping the rest of your formula the same. This makes it easier to fine-tune your skincare as your skin changes or as your comfort level grows.

Higher percentages can increase potency and may also slightly change the texture or richness of the final product.

Step 4: Add Optional Finishing Touches

You can customize your formula further with optional oil additives, scent choices, bottle upgrades, and label options.

These finishing touches can affect the feel, scent, appearance, and packaging performance of your final product.

General Tips

  • Store your serum in a cool, dark place unless otherwise noted for a specific ingredient.
  • Shake gently before each use if needed to help keep the blend uniform.
  • If you are new to active ingredients, start simple. One or two actives is often the best starting point.
  • Even natural ingredients can affect the color, scent, and texture of the final product.

Ingredient Descriptions

Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides (CCT)

Overview
A clear, lightweight carrier oil that creates a dry, fast-absorbing finish.

Skin Feel / Texture
Very light, weightless, silky, and dry.

Function
Improves spreadability and helps oil-soluble ingredients distribute evenly.

Best For
Oily, acne-prone, sensitive, or anyone who wants a quick-drying feel.

Use Level
Base oil option

Formulation Notes
A great choice if you want the formula to feel light and fast-absorbing.
Extremely stable and easy to work with.

Squalane

Overview
A lightweight emollient that helps skin feel smooth and soft while keeping the
formula elegant and fluid.

Skin Feel / Texture
Silky, balanced, and fast-absorbing.

Function
Supports barrier comfort, improves glide, and helps maintain a lightweight
feel.

Best For
All skin types, especially oily, combination, and sensitive skin.

Use Level
Base oil option

Formulation Notes
One of the most universally suitable base oils. It offers a great balance
between a dry finish and a moisturizing feel. We use olive derived squalane.

Abyssinian Oil

Overview
A plant-based oil that gives the formula a more velvety, cushiony, and
luxurious finish.

Skin Feel / Texture
Smooth, silky, medium-weight, and slightly richer.

Function
Supports moisture retention and gives the formula more body and softness.

Best For
Normal, dry, or mature skin.

Use Level
Base oil option

Formulation Notes
A great option if you want the final product to feel more indulgent while still
absorbing well.

Argan Oil

Overview
A nourishing plant oil rich in fatty acids that adds softness and moisture to
the final formula.

Skin Feel / Texture
Medium-weight, silky, and more moisturizing.

Function
Helps condition skin and support a softer, more nourished finish.

Best For
Dry, normal, mature, or moisture-depleted skin.

Use Level
Base oil option

Formulation Notes
Best for customers who want a slightly richer, more conditioning feel in their
formula.

Coco Caprylate/Caprate

Overview
A lightweight emollient that helps formulas feel silkier, lighter, and less
greasy.

Skin Feel / Texture
Very light, smooth, dry-touch, and fast-spreading.

Function
Improves spreadability and reduces heaviness.

Best For
Anyone who wants a more elegant, less oily finish.

Use Level
5% to 20%

Formulation Notes
A great option for improving slip and making richer formulas feel lighter and
more refined.

Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Silk

Overview
A conditioning additive that helps improve softness and gives the formula a
smoother, more luxurious after-feel.

Skin Feel / Texture
Silky, soft, and slightly richer.

Function
Enhances elegance, conditioning, and skin feel.

Best For
Customers who want a more luxurious finish.

Use Level
1% to 5%

Formulation Notes
Useful when you want the final formula to feel more polished and conditioned on
the skin. This is animal derived silk.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDA)

Overview
An oil-soluble vitamin C derivative used for brightening and antioxidant
support.

Skin Feel / Texture
Smooth, medium-weight, and slightly richer.

Function
Helps brighten, support firmness, and improve the look of uneven tone.

Best For
Brightening, antioxidant support, and tone-focused formulas.

Use Level
5% to 30%

Formulation Notes
A very flexible ingredient that lets customers adjust strength over time while
keeping the rest of the formula consistent.

Acetyl Zingerone Blend

Overview
An antioxidant blend designed to help support formula stability and reduce
oxidative stress.

Skin Feel / Texture
Light, dry, fast-absorbing, and less oily.

Function
Provides antioxidant support and helps improve sensory dryness.

Best For
Antioxidant-focused or vitamin C-supportive formulas.

Use Level
0.25% to 0.5%

Formulation Notes
Not compatible with certain liposomal or encapsulated ingredients. Adds a
noticeably drier, cleaner finish.

Blend Composition

Acetyl Zingerone, Dimethyl Isosorbide, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides

Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol (DMMC) Blend

Overview
A powerful antioxidant that helps support the formula against reactive oxygen
and nitrogen species.

Skin Feel / Texture
Lightweight with a slightly semi-dry finish.

Function
Provides advanced antioxidant protection.

Best For
Antioxidant-heavy, vitamin C-supportive, or environmental support formulas.

Use Level
0.05%

Formulation Notes
Works well in formulas where added antioxidant support is desired without
adding much heaviness.

Blend Composition
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Licorice Root Extract Blend

Overview
A botanical conditioning oil blend used to help brighten and support a more
even-looking complexion.

Skin Feel / Texture
Light and conditioning with minimal effect on thickness.

Function
Helps improve the appearance of uneven tone and supports skin comfort.

Best For
Brightening, tone support, and gentle conditioning.

Use Level
1% to 5%

Formulation Notes
A flexible ingredient that fits easily into many formulas.

Blend Composition

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Blend

Overview
A conditioning ingredient used in formulas designed to support a smoother-looking and more conditioned skin appearance.

Skin Feel / Texture
Medium-weight with a slightly cushioned, richer feel.

Function
Helps support skin conditioning and contributes to a more structured, smooth finish in the formula.

Best For
Formulas focused on conditioning, smoothing, or adding a slightly richer skin feel.

Use Level
0.5% to 1%

Formulation Notes
Can add a small amount of richness and body to the formula depending on the overall composition. Often used in blends intended to create a smoother and more conditioned finish.

Sambucus Nigra (Elderberry) Fruit Extract

Overview
A botanical extract derived from elderberry fruit used in oil-based formulas to provide antioxidant support and light skin-conditioning benefits.

Skin Feel / Texture
Light to medium with minimal effect on overall viscosity.

Function
Helps support antioxidant-focused formulas and contributes to overall skin conditioning.

Best For
Formulas focused on general antioxidant support and botanical skin-conditioning ingredients.

Use Level
2%

Formulation Notes
We add this to all oil based serums by default as this helps to preserve the product. Adds mild richness and may slightly influence the natural color of the final formula. Store in a cool, dark place to help preserve the stability of the botanical components.

Mixed Tocopherols

Overview
A concentrated blend of vitamin E compounds used to help support oil stability and provide antioxidant benefits within the formula.

Skin Feel / Texture
Light to medium with a slightly richer feel at higher levels.

Function
Helps support antioxidant protection within oil-based formulas and contributes to skin-conditioning properties.

Best For
Antioxidant-support formulas, vitamin C formulas, and general oil stability.

Use Level
.5%

Formulation Notes
We included this in all of our oil based serums by default to help support the stability of oils and other sensitive ingredients. May slightly deepen the color of the formula depending on the concentration.

Ubiquinone & Vitamin E Blend

Overview
An antioxidant blend that helps support the oils in the formula while adding
light conditioning benefits.

Skin Feel / Texture
Light to medium with a smooth, conditioned finish.

Function
Provides antioxidant support and helps protect oil-based formulas.

Best For
General antioxidant support and supportive vitamin C formulas.

Use Level
1% to 5%

Formulation Notes
A versatile blend that works well in many formula types. Can potentially stain clothing, bedding and other materials with its slight orange hue.

Blend Composition

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ubiquinone

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine Blend

Overview
A targeted brightening ingredient used to help improve the look of uneven skin
tone.

Skin Feel / Texture
Light to medium with minimal effect on the final texture.

Function
Supports a brighter, more even-looking complexion.

Best For
Discoloration-focused and tone-correcting formulas.

Use Level
0.5% to 1%

Formulation Notes
Best used in formulas centered around visible brightening and tone support. Suggested to use only at .5% if you are using other brighteners.

Blend Composition
Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Blend

Overview
A peptide-based ingredient designed to help soften the look of expression
lines.

Skin Feel / Texture
Smooth, light, and non-thickening.

Function
Supports a smoother-looking skin surface.

Best For
Fine line-focused or peptide-support formulas.

Use Level
1% to 2%

Formulation Notes
Because this type of ingredient is sensitive, compatibility with other selected
ingredients matters. The builder will automatically help prevent incompatible
combinations.

Blend Composition

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Water, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Hyaluronic Acid & Tripeptide-1 Blend

Overview
A hydration-focused blend that adds a dewy, smoother after-feel.

Skin Feel / Texture
Medium viscosity, dewy, and slightly richer.

Function
Helps support moisture and a smoother-looking skin surface.

Best For
Hydration-focused or support formulas.

Use Level
.5% to 1%

Blend Composition

Isohexadecane, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate ,Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Tripeptide-1, Alkyl Benzoate C12-15

Lupinus Albus Seed Extract Blend

Overview
A botanical extract blend used to help support firmer-feeling and more
conditioned skin.

Skin Feel / Texture
Medium feel, soft finish, and slightly richer.

Function
Supports firmness and a more elastic-looking appearance.

Best For
Firmness-focused or mature-skin formulas.

Use Level
1% to 2%

Formulation Notes
Adds a soft, slightly cushioned feel while contributing to a more supportive
anti-aging profile.

Blend Composition

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Tocopherol

Phoenix Dactylifera Seed Extract Blend

Overview
A botanical extract blend that helps support antioxidant benefits and a
smoother skin feel.

Skin Feel / Texture
Light, balanced, and silky.

Function
Provides antioxidant support and helps improve the feel of the final formula.

Best For
Supportive antioxidant and conditioning formulas.

Use Level
1% to 2%

Formulation Notes
A good option when you want a botanical extract that adds function without
significantly changing texture.

Blend Composition

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Phoenix Dactylifera (Date) Seed Extract

Encapsulated Retinol Blend

Overview
A time-release retinol system designed to improve stability and support a more
gradual delivery.

Skin Feel / Texture
Medium-rich, velvety, and slightly thicker.

Function
Helps support skin renewal and improve the look of fine lines and texture.

Best For
Retinoid-focused formulas and customers wanting a more advanced renewal
ingredient.

Use Level
0.1% to 1%

Formulation Notes
A great ingredient for gradual progression. Many customers may want to begin at
a lower level and increase over time.

Blend Composition

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Phospholipids, Retinol

Retinyl Linoleate Blend

Overview
A vitamin A derivative for customers who want a gentler, more beginner-friendly
retinoid option.

Skin Feel / Texture
Light to medium, smooth, and elegant.

Function
Supports skin renewal and helps improve the appearance of tone and texture.

Best For
Beginner retinoid users or customers wanting a milder vitamin A option.

Use Level
2.5% to 10%

Formulation Notes
A useful choice for customers who want to introduce a vitamin A derivative more
gradually.

Blend Composition

Squalane, Retinyl Linoleate

Bakuchiol

Overview
A plant-derived ingredient often used in formulas focused on smoothing and
visible tone support.

Skin Feel / Texture
Medium-weight, slightly richer, and cushioned.

Function
Helps smooth and improve the look of uneven tone.

Best For
Customers looking for a retinol-alternative style ingredient or extra support
in renewal-focused formulas.

Use Level
0.5% to 1%

Formulation Notes
Adds some body to the formula and works well in more conditioning blends. This is compatible with Retinol.

Sea Buckthorn Fruit Oil

Overview
A naturally pigmented nourishing oil rich in fatty acids and carotenoids.

Skin Feel / Texture
Rich, cushioned, and slower-absorbing.

Function
Provides deep nourishment and barrier support.

Best For
Dry, mature, or nourishment-focused formulas.

Use Level
1% to 5%

Formulation Notes
Adds color, richness, and a more substantial feel to the final product. Any
amount of Sea Buckthorn Fruit Oil can stain clothing, bedding, and other
materials with it's orange hue color.